Culinary Conversations
The secrets of top chefs
By JANE DUNNE
NAME OF CHEF: Patricia Kelly Molden
COOKING SCHOOL AND PROFESSIONAL BACKGROUND:
I graduated from Northwestern University with a degree in comparative literature, an urge to cook, and a love of all things French. This led me to a two-year apprenticeship with Chef John Snowden, of Dumas Pere Ecole de la Cuisine Francaise. Washing dishes, scrubbing stoves, mopping floors (for no pay) but also, happily, cooking, cooking, cooking under the tutelage of one of the top chefs in Chicago. I took this firm foundation in the techniques of classic French cooking, and worked as a bread and pastry chef, head chef, private caterer, and now, to Kelly’s Table (where I get to wash dishes, scrub stoves, mop floors, and cook, cook, cook)!
MOST POPULAR DISHES ON MENU FOR WINTER:
I like to serve rich, flavorful specials during the winter – whatever strikes me that week. Some of these dishes are Creamy Wild Mushroom Soup, Slow-Roasted Pork with Chile-Citrus Marinade, Carbonnade de Boeuf, Pecan-Crusted Walleye with Orange Beurre Blanc, Apple-Cranberry Bread Pudding.
WHAT WAS THE FIRST MEAL YOU EVER PREPARED?
I have been cooking for as long as I can remember. One of my earliest memories is that of snapping green beans sitting on the floor in my Grandma’s kitchen. In a family with nine children, EVERYONE cooks, and we all still love to cook today.
WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE KITCHEN TOOL?
I have a favorite pair of tongs, a favorite turner, and a very favorite silicone spatula. If any of these disappear during dinner service, I feel like my right arm is missing.
WHAT ARE YOUR FAVORITE 3 COOKBOOKS?
I learned to cook from these books, and still use them constantly:
Mastering the Art of French Cooking (both volumes)
Michael Field Cooking School Cookbook
The Simple Art of Perfect Baking, by Flo Braker
IF YOU COULD INVITE CHEFS OF 3 FOOD PERSONALITIES (LIVING OR DEAD) FOR DINNER, WHO WOULD THEY BE AND WHY?
Of course Julia Child- an asset to any party. Grant Achatz of Alinea, the Mozart of the kitchen. And, since my Dad was the inspiration for this restaurant, I would love to invite August Escoffier, author of my dad’s favorite cookbook, from which HE learned to cook. And Grant and Julia would love to meet him too. Of course, I wouldn’t dream of actually daring to cook for any of them!
WHAT IS THE MOST BIZZARE THING YOU HAVE EVER EATEN?
I was visiting a friend in France, and told his mother I had never eaten tripe. Never throw down a cooking challenge to a French woman! She worked two days to make me a special tripe dish….but, ooh, I tried, but I did not like it! “Sorry,” Claude said, “My mother does not really make good tripe. It is usually much better than this.” I have never tried it again.
WHAT DO YOU SEE AS THE NEXT FOOD TREND IN 2007?
I think we will see an increase in awareness and demand for locally and sustainably grown food in general.
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